REMARKS ABOUT NEPAL-SIKKIM TABLES
Here are the translations of the remarks in french about each table of Nepal / Sikkim. You would be kind to excuse the approximative english used here ! If you have corrections to improve the style, please write me.
If you print this document, bear in mind that it should take appr. 8 pages.
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NEPAL * Gorkha * Chautara * See also translations of Tibet routes |
SIKKIM / DARJEELING |
IN NEPAL
STATE OF THE ROAD
Good state, bad the very first km, then OK. 5-7 km before Pokhara, deformed downhill road, because of landslides. Km markers OK, but often unreadable : some painted inscriptions use some other references (from the border).
TRAFFIC
Buses, trucks, jeeps, but in reasonable number.
PROFILE
Soft at the beginning, then BK (km marker) 36-43 : up 4-6 %. Small downhill, then soft uphill up to Brindavan. Then 4 km at 5% to Bartung. Bartung to Arya Bhanjyang : almost flat. Some up-and-downs then before downhilling in the valley around Bhakunde. Flat on 12 km. Hill between Kellu and Mayatari and Karendanda, then down to Syangja. After Syangja, the road climb high up above the valley before down softly on the valley bottom. Final uphill to the pass not very strong. After the pass, mainly down, but you have to climb 2 km more. Entrance in Pokhara with a "fake flat".
Total climbing Sonauli-Pokhara : 2450 m / 8050 ft, Pokhara-Sonauli : 1700 m / 5550 ft
WATER
Fountains in hamlets or along the road, treat it (intestinal problems after a while). Generaly, you are sure to find fountains at least every 4-5 km
CAMPING
Difficult to camp discretly. You can try just before BK 53.5 before Bartung, along the river. After, either populated or hilly (and more often both the two). After Bhakunde, valley very cultivated and populated. Kiosk just before Bayarghari, useful if rain, but rendezvous of the young villagers before the night. Some possibilites :
5 km after Bayarghari, terrasses in the curves at the beginning of the climbing.
1.5 km after Karendanda, just after Jaisidanda. 3 km after Rangkhola
3.5 km after the Syangja bridge, small valley on the right, and just after, small flat above the road.
4 km after the pass, last chance to camp before Pokhara.
FEATURES
Middle mountain itinerary, with some gorges crossing. Not very fantastic, but never boring. At the last pass, view upon Himalaya if the weather is OK. Note that even in winter, haze is often here. Tansen is an agreable place to stay : beautifully perched high above the valleys, and crest road upon the town towards Tamghas. If clear sky, also views upon Himalaya.
(1) The access to Thamel is quieter (let's say : some less noisy) and even not longer, turning left on Ring Road, good and not congested on this part. After 5 km, at a roundabout, turn right towards the city. At 1 km, the street goes up. Stay on the street going left, then just after the crossroad in Y, turn immediately on the right in a small street in right angle (you can rapidly see hotels). You are in the north of Thamel, the quieter zone (and no tout will await you here). Following this street, you have time to choose your hotel before reaching the "hypercenter" of Thamel (at no more than 500 m !). If you miss the street, the second one on the right goes also to Thamel, but in a less quiet zone.
STATE OF THE ROAD
Good shape, bad the very first km and around Lekhnath on 4 km. After Mugling, wider road, but with the traffic, it is almost not enough.
TRAFFIC
Buses, trucks, jeeps, a little less after Leknath, and more after Damauli. After Mugling, le traffic doubles, or even triples : 200 vehicles per hour, but with 80 % of trucks and buses, for whom some dangerous drivers always in a hurry.
PROFILE
Don't make no mistake : although this road is mainly in a low land and generally following valleys, it is really a mountain road with a lot of hills. Mainly down up to Dulegaunda, then small pass not very marked and 5 km down to Damauli. Up again 4/5 km before Deurali. After Dumre, you follow a valley, but not always on a flat road. From Mugling (BK 83) to BK 25, the road is along gorges : almost never flat, always up and down. After, hilly steadily, increasing 7 km before Naubise. After Naubise, soft hill the first km, harder then up almost to the pass.
Total climbing : Pokhara-Mugling 700 m, Mugling-Naubise 1200 m, Naubise-Kathmandu 650 m
Kathmandu-Naubise 250 m, Naubise-Mugling 600 m, Mugling-Pokhara 1250 m
WATER
Fountains in hamlets or along the road, treat it (intestinal problems after a while). Generally, you are sure to find fountains at least every 4-5 km
CAMPING
Difficult to camp discrete. Villages are sometimes 5 km larger (Lekhnath, Dulegaunda), and there are often farms, not so isolated. Options :
Around BK 144, then BK 142 (close to abandoned house), tiny creek close to BK 131.5 (2 km after the small pass). 3 km after the Sicone Pass around BK 111.5, small hill on the left. 2 km after Dumre. also bush BK 97 & 94. After Mugling, maybe BK 65.5, back to a wall, or around a kiosk BK 55 (350 m further, flat terrain close to the road).
But I think that these places will be built in next years. The only good place to camp : 2 km after Gajuri, just after BK 36, a bush above the road, accessible by a good wide track. After, up to Kathmandu, almost impossible to camp discrete, or even simply to camp.
FEATURES
Exit of Pokhara up to Dulegaunda nearly boring, except if the Annapurnas Chain is visible (mainly in your back). The road becomes prettier 5 km before Damauli and after : up-down of small passes, valley in canyon with the road high up.. After Mugling, gorges : without the traffic and the endless up-and-downs, this portion would be agreeable. The climb after Naubise becomes more and more spectacular, with the big curve.
About Kathmandu Valley, don't except anything mythic : very populated valley, everywhere in construction, dusty, smoky, noisy...
Some kinds along the road ask for one rupee. With the traffic and the average education level of the drivers, expect some dubious jokes (grazing the cyclist, etc) - but it's exceptional.
After Khaireni : 25 km on a good asphalted road. The first 11 km, some small downs, then after steady climb, but not too hard. Total climbing : 870 m / 2850 ft.
At the bus stand, turn right on the very hilly paved road, going to the entrance of Tallo Durbar. To join Gorkha Durbar, impressive eagle's nest 300 m above, follow the paved road on the right, then take the stairs on the left : this one climbs up to the fortress.
China 10h00 -> Népal 07h45 (!). Border not really possible to cross before 10h00 Beijing Time.
STATE OF ROAD
Zhangmu-Kodari, horrible road, always destroyed by moonsoon time july-august : you must then carry bikes and bags. Up to mid-juin and from October, no problem. Kodari-Barabise : bit better road, always with risks of landslides. Then very good asphalt up to KMD. For the Dhulikel-Kathmandu section, see the Vallée de Kathmandu map. To find your way at the entrance of the Nepal capital, see plan de Kathmandu.
TRAFFIC
Negligeable up to Barabise, go increasing then, up to become important after Dhulikel, and really boring (narrow way, everything walking, riding and animaling being on the road) after Bharatpur.
PROFILE
Strong downhill up to Kodari, then soft up to Barabise, with some small uphills before (some caused by landslides, steep ascents). Long and soft ascent to Dhulikel, last pass Sangu (easy) ; total ascent Zhangmu-Dolalghat 350 m, Dolalghat-Kathmandu 1100 m.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Frequent accomodation (Zhangmu, Kodari, Tatopani, Barabise, probably Dolalghat, Dhulikhel, Banepa). Camping difficult (steep and crowded), possible above Saping pass (there is even a small kiosk), and also at the small saddle at the exit of Lamidanda (wood).
Outside moonsoon, almost trusty up to Dhulikhel, mostly up to Barabise. At KMD, it is so black that it is better not to try to drink.
FEATURES
Total changement from the Tibetan plateau : dense vegetation, heat, moisture…Better to avoid this road from mid-june to mid-september (moonsoon). From Dhulikhel and around (Namo Buddah), you can see sometimes the Himalayan range, weather permitting (very early in the morning). See the excursions autour de Kathmandu (only in French still now), see also l'accès à Jiri and at Chautara
(1) For the future, we can think that there will be by this way an access to the Terai (there would miss only the short section Manthali-Bimeshwor between Sindhulimadhi and Barbidas)
STATE OF ROAD
Pretty good asphalted road, except 2 km before Khari Dunga (summit of the first pass), and some landslides from here to there.
TRAFFIC
About thirty vehicles a day, from which around twenty buses. Careful : narrow road, and vehicles almost never horn in curves (the only place were they would better horn !).
PROFILE
A lot ! From Khandichaur, you ride from 785 m to 2650, then 1870, then 2100, then 890, then 2525 ! Average ascents 6 %, but you will find "without problem"some sections at 8-10 %.
Total climbing Khadichaur-Jiri : 3950 m, Jiri-Khadichaur 2800 m.
WATER
Few problems, no necessary to treat (I even could cure my intestins there).
CAMPING
You cross a lot of bushes, but often in steep areas. Up to Charikot, not easy to camp. Around BK 58, just before a kiosk, possible. In the ascent to Jiri, it is not very easy also. The less uneasy would be on the last km before the final pass.
FEATURES
In fact, you can catch a glimpse on the himalayan summits (weather permitting, of course) only from the passes. Elsewhere, you are always on a road high perched above billions of terraced cultures. The fantastic is to be on the first passes, to see just in front the pass before Jiri, and to realise that there is...68 km to ride between. Jiri is of course the trailhead of the Everest Base Camp trek. A dirt road goes up to Chivalaya by the valleys, avoiding the pass. This route is for those who like to cycle in high mountain. Very quiet, less demographic pression than the ordinary valleys in Nepal. Kids sometimes exhuberant.
STATE OF ROAD
9 km of good asphalt, then pretty bad dirt road, particularly at the end. Asphalt at the entrance of Chautara.
TRAFFIC
5-6 buess/trucks per hour.
PROFILE
Excepts some rare flat parts, the climb up to the pass at 1700 m is steady. On the other side, soft descent on 8 km.
Total climbing : Dolalghat-Chautara 1050 m, Chautara-Dolalghat 300 m.
WATER
Fountains in the hamlets, but seems often dry. Ask to houses.
CAMPING
Seems only possible around BK 4, in one of the curves, and also around Bhanjyang Basoni.
FEATURES
Weather permitting, good view on the Himalayan Chain. Beautiful road following from close a ridge. Views all along on the valleys and hills around, with terraces cultures, perched hamlets, etc... Very few tourists, nice road. It's a pity that it is paved only on ten km.
For those who wouldn't like to come back by the same way, and to whom a very steep road is not a problem, there is a small dirt road from Chautara to Melamchi, at about 40 km. Tough : you first go down a valley, at less than 900 m elev., to climb to another ridge at around 1600 m, before descending to Melamchi.
STATE ROAD
Up to Naubise : pretty good road, be careful in some parts when down cycling. Naubise-Daman : pretty good, narrow. Daman-Hetauda : not very good the 15 km following Sim Bhanjyang, mainly the last 10 km of this section. After, new road, but very fough, jolting.
Between Naubise and Hetauda, 2 km markers : the one, illisible, from Raxaul to Kathmandu, and the other, painted black on yellow, from Naubise to Hetauda. Although this last is not steadily indicated (particularly after Sim Bhanjyang), we take it as reference in "bk" column.
TRAFFIC
Infernal up to Naubise : 200 vehicles/h, but only big, and always in bloks of 4 to 10, noisy and smoky. Naubise-Daman : 5 vehicles/h, 10 in rush hours. After Daman, 3 vehicles/h max.
To go outside Kathmandu from Thamel, better to go first northwestbound to the roundabout of Balaju on the Ring Road. There, turn left, pass Swayanbunath, and reach the Naubise road. You avoid a dirt small hill at the exit of Kathmandu, and the traffic on this part of Ring Road is more bearable.
PROFILE
Up to Thankot, the final climb to the exit of the Valley is easy. Brutal downhill to Naubise. The first 8 km after Naubise, the road still hesits to climb, up to the foot of the curves. Then steady uphill up to the environs of a saddle (BK16), then soft hill to a bridge (BK27), then hill again up to the Tistung Deurali.
Just the river crossed at Okhar Bazar, the road climbs again without interruption to Daman and Sim Bhanjyang. Downhill almost everytime up to Bhainse, 10 km before Hetauda.
Total climbing : Kathmandu-Naubise 250 m, Naubise-Hetauda 1850 m
Hetauda-Naubise 2250 m, Naubise-Kathmandu 650 m
WATER
In the hamlets, or in the numbered farms along the road. Outside : before Tistung Deural BK 28-30, and before Daman BK 48. Torrent BK 53.5 just before Sim Bhanjyang, and then BK 68-72.
CAMPING
Possible around BK 29, just before Tistung Deurali. 2 km before Daman, on a curve there is a rest area, easy to camp below it. Between Daman and Sim Bhanjyang, you can find some small places, but not always with a perfect view on the mountains. After. Après Sim Bhanjyang, not very easy. On a hill close to a curve at 3 km, or, only if caught by the night, BK 62 just below a curve just up to Aghor, close to a frequented path.
FEATURES
The climb from Naubise becomes more and more impressive approaching Tistung Deurali. The viewpoint from Daman is not so fantastic : better to camp higher, the viewpoint 1 km before Sim Bhanjyang is the best. After Lamidanda, almost mediterranean vegetation up to almost Hetauda.
STATE OF ROAD
Good
TRAFFIC
100 vehicles / hour, but regular and wide enough road.
PROFILE
Easy uphill to Churiya Boxcut, then soft descent, and integral flat up to the border.
Total climbing : Hetauda-Raxaul 200 m, Raxaul-Hetauda 600 m.
CAMPING
BK 139-140 then 146-147 very easy. Further on, very crowded
FEATURES
At the end of the ascent after Hetauda, nice viewpoint back on the mountain barrier.
IN NORTH EAST INDIA
(1) It is one (or the two) of these roads which becomes dirt, and goes to Kaffer by Jhandi Dara (1820 m)
(2) The good reason to take the no-way street, is that the other street is narrow, in a bad shape, goes by a crowded street market, and at the end you don't know where you exactly are. Than by the forbiden street, you reach directly the good hotels (Deki Lodge)
(3) turning right : after 800 m, in the curve, turn left on the quiet road almost following the crest up to Kalimpong, at BK 18
STATE OF ROAD
Excellent the first 19 km. Deteriorated around Sevoke, good then til Kalimpong
TRAFFIC
Some up to Sevoke, quieter then towards Dimdam, and very quiet up to Kalimpong : 3 à 5 vehicles / hour !
PROFILE
Mainly flat up to Damdim, except around Sevoke. Fake flat to Gurubathan, then up steadily up to Lava. Irregular climb, with some steep parts following some funny very soft hill curvespuis montée presque sans interruption jusqu'à Lava. This climb is large (Gurubathan-Lava 40 km), but not very steep (1650 m / 5400 ft gain elevation). From 2 km after Lava to Kalimpong, mainly downhill, except before Algarah.
Total climbing : Siliguri-Kalimpong 2100 m, Kalimpong-Siliguri 1000 m.
WATER
Up to Gurubathan, only in villages and hamlets, recommanded to treat. After : BK 18.5 / 34 / 37.5, but the road is often borded by farms between Ambiok and Samabeong. More : BK 50.5 / 51.5. After, no water outside hamlet / village.
CAMPING
Very easy at the exit of Siliguri (BK 583-589 + 590-591), you cross the Mahandada Wildlife Reserve (be carefull with the monkeys more than the tigers !). Then BK 599-602. Then, tea plantations and villages.
After Damdin : BK 11 just before Gurubathan. Difficult after up to Lava, except a little bit after BK 32, back of the small hill after the curve. You can also try BK 45.5, close to the path cutting the curve, and BK 46.5 in the curve, or also BK 49.5 below the road. After Lava : before BK 55 in the curve, and at the top of the road (BK 56.5). Excellent place easy to reack BK 68.5, another one BK 67.5.
FEATURES
The exit of Siliguri is surpringly calm, thanks to the Wildlife Reserve. From Sevoke to Gurubathan, not really impressive. After Gurubathan, the climbing is more and more beautiful, along the numerous curves of the road. Before Lava, you reach a thick pine forest. After Lava, the road follows more or less a crest, which provides views on others valleys when crossing a saddle.
Small forest road, paved all the way except the last 1.5 km.
Often steep road, mainly between Gumba Dara and Padang.
Water under the pass close to the low point before Gumba Dare - it evens seems that this point is where the village is provided with water.
The viewpoint of Jhandi Dara is well situated in front of Kalimpong, and by good weather it is possible to see Himalaya.
Nevertheless, this detour of 25 km (so 50 km return) is justified neither by the landscape, nor even by the viewpoint. Just nice trip in the forest.
STATE OF ROAD
Kalimpong-Tista, rough. Tista-Rangpo, not bad. Rangpo-Ranipol, often rough. Ranipol-Gangtok, new, excellent.
TRAFFIC
Between Kalimpong and Tista, a few. Between Tista and Rangpo, around 100 vehicles / h, traffic increasing afteren Rangpo. The arrival at Gangtok is close to be tough. Drivers seem to never have seen one bicycle in their life : everytime they horn as soon as they see you, afraid that you'll run under their car.
PROFILE
Irregular descent up to Tista then Melli. After, gorge itinerary, id est almost never flat, up to Singtam. After Singtam, progressive ascent, but from Ranipol to Gangtok, it is really steeper.
Total climbing : Kalimpong-Melling 30 m, Melling-Gangtok Centre 1750 m
Gangtok Centre-Melling 350 m, Melling-Kalimpong 1000 m
WATER
Outside inhabited areas, BK 62 & 71, trusty.
CAMPING - LODGING
Note : in (North ?) India hotel = restaurant/cafe, lodge = hotel.
Between Rangpo and Gangtok, I didn't see any lodge, except one youth hostel BK 83.
Gangtok: hôtels Lagkpa & Central, on Tibet Road, are directly accessible by the small street climbing inmediatly on the left, when you are on MG Marg. But this street is so steep and congested that it is maybe better to follow the main road up to Zero Point, then turn right, then again two other times right branch, and so taking Tibet Road on the descent way.
Camping : between Kalimpong and Teesta : BK 3, easy. Between Teesta and Rangpo, often easy between BK 35 & 48. There is even a vast shelter at the entrance of Melling.
Between Rangpo and Gangtok, difficult (steep, often crowded landscape). You can try close to the kiosk BK 76.5, and maybe just before BK 78 (where I camp just before night). The town of Gangtok begins if fact fromBK 83, excluding camping.
FEATURES
The most beautiful part is between Tista and Rangpo. After, the Sikkim doesn't appear under its best side: congested road, towns and hamlets everywhere, factories, warehouses...Nevertheless, the final climb between Ranipol and Gangtok is pretty impressive.
STATE OF ROAD
Excellent on the highway leaving Gangtok. On the Rumtek road, the first 4 km are in poor condition, then new road up to Sang. Sang-Lower Khamdong, totally destroyed road, in (very long) works, some improvment here and there. The Damthang road is good, this between Damthang and Rabongla pretty old. Direct road Turku-Rabongla and Kewzing new and good. Very bad road between Kewzing and Rangit Nagar, but works are in good progress.
TRAFFIC
Around 10/15 vehicles / h to Rumtek, 5 after up to Sang. Some jeeps then. Up to Rabongla : 15/20 vehicles / h.
PROFILE
Steep uphill to Rumtek (mainly up to Shanti Viewpoint 7% average). Up-and-downs up to Sang, then steady descent up to the valley. Steady climp to Damthang, not really steep, but long. The climb stops 1,5 km before Damthang. After Damthang, brutal up between BK1 and BK4, then soft, but in the descent to Rabongla, there's even a small hill ! From Rabongla to Legship, only down.
Total climbing : Gangtok-Bridges Singtam 850 m, Bridges Singtam-Legship 1700 m
Legship-Bridges Singtam 1850 m, Bridges Singtam-Gangtok 2000 m
WATER
3 & 4 km after Sang, otherwise houses everywhere. Creeks mainly around Tarku (6, 3 & 1 km before, 1 km after), relatively trusty. Damthang seems to suffer lack of water.
CAMPING
Not easy to camp discretly : under the bridge before the Sinchutang Junction (at the beginning of the climbing to Rabongla). 3 km before Damthang, in the curve at the beginning of the forest. A very good place : 4 km after Damthang, in the forest, easy access, and also around the Rayong Ghati.
FEATURES
Rumtek and its monastery. The descent from Sang up to the very low valley. Crossing of tea plantation of Sikkim between Themi and Damthang. Just at the end of the downhill to Rabongla, beautiful view up to the himalayan summits.
LEGSHIP-Yuksom-Pelling-LEGSHIP
STATE OF ROAD
Legship-Tashiding-Yuksom good (although some "holes" unasphalted, up to 500 m large for one). Yuksom- Rimbi, dirt road (you can see the former asphalt by places, mainly after the Kechepalri Junction : it was once the motorable access to Yuksom before the construction of the road by Tashiding). After Rimbi, new road. After Pelling, pretty bad up to Geyzing. Geyzing-Legship perfect.
PROFILE
Pretty steep up to Yuksom, road everytime in un-and-down. Less steep between Yuksom and Rimbi. Steady climb to Pelling. Then steep descent up to Legship, mainly before Geyzing.
Total climbing : 2350 m.
WATER
At the beginning of the descent between the lake (at the end of Legship) , then 1 & 3 km after Chongrang.
Between Yuksom and up to 2km before Lower Pelling, you can find easily water. Geyzing-Legship 4 times.
CAMPING
Not easy, road often on flank of the mountain, or inhabited along. Small flat along the road 4,5 km after Tashiding. 3 km after the hamlet on a crest (40 km from Legship), there is a very tiny dry bridge (outside moonsoon). You can try 1.5 km after Rimbi, or a little bit better, 2 km after Upper Darap : path close to a bridge, reaching a small flat.
At Upper Pelling, quiet kiosk at the foot of the Sanga Choelling monastery at 1.2 km : at the pass, take the right fork, then each time take left fork.
2 km before Legship, you can try close to the small hill.
FEATURES
Tashiding and its monastery on the summit. The road between Tashiding and Yuksom, high above the valley. The Phamrong waterfall are pretty impressive. Pelling : the Pemayangse monastery on the hill, the one of Sanga Choeling on the other. Weather permitting (morning), the viewpoint on the Himalaya is superb.
STATE OF ROAD
Good recent road.
TRAFFIC
Moderate (10 / 15 vehicles/h)
PROFILE
Very well built road between Legship and Jorethang, once passed the steep section at the end of Legship. A lot of up-and-downs between Jorethang and Melling, mainly to the end.
Total climbing : Legship-Melling 350 m, Melling-Legship 700 m.
WATER
Frequent between Legship and Jorethang. Sometimes after up to Melling.
CAMPING
Difficult between Legship and Jorethang. After Jorethang : BK 22 / 13.5 / 9.5 (kiosk betlow the road) / 6.2 (above the road).
FEATURES
Pretty nice route in gorges, changing from the perpetual aerial views along the Sikkimese roads. After Jorethang, the road is beautiful, which pays of his profile in up-and-downs.
STATE OF ROAD
Generaly good, the less good is the descent to Darjeeling. Beware between Ghoom and Darjeeling, the railways cuts Attention de plus entre Ghoom et Darjeeling, the road often cuts the rails of this HST (High Steam Train)
TRAFFIC
Reduced up to Jorbungla, 15-20 vehicles/h.
PROFILE
On its first part, extremly steep : in 12,5 km, you climb...1580 m. No, there's no mistake, 12,5 % constant (although very irregular climb, with sections at 15 and up to 18 %) on 12,5 km. To give you an idea, a classical mountain road is generally at 5-6 % in average, 7 % at least (outside Dolomites, where somme crazy road builders have hardly worked). Asphalted road so steep on a so long distance are very unusual (as far as I know, it's even the only case).
Total climbing : Melling-Darjeeling 2200 m, Darjeeling-Melling 300 m.
WATER
Outside hamlet : BK 18 and 4 km each side of Takhmal.
CAMPING
1,5 km and 3,5 km after the beginning of the climb. 0,5 km before Takhmal.
FEATURES
This itinerary, I don't wish it to my worst ennemy or the Devil - but I would recommend it to Bush-rat and his silly neo-liberal-imperial-integrist fellow, always in delay of one war.The only good new : you climb rapidly to DJL (it took me 7 h, meanwhile with a road at 5%, it would have taken me 8h1/2 or 9h). Even in descent this road is difficult, brakes being very sollicited. Outside this miserable detail of the steepness, nice quiet road.
There is one other asphalted road, never indicated on any map, less steep (although close to 1800 m in 31 km, 6 % average, if ever the ascent is steady) : almost midway Tista and Sevoke, at 13 km rom the Tista bridge, at Rambhi, a road climbs in 31 km up to 6th Mile, 10 km before Ghoom.
Note that from Sikkim, 2 jeep roads climb to Darjeeling (one froml Naya Bazar close to Jorethang, the other 9 km down from Majitar) : they are as steep as the descripted road here, and only for jeep. Recommended to avoid them if you travel with full cycle bags.
Note for Darjeeling : the Lonely Planet city map is, for once, neither precise nor very reliable. This from India Handbook is better. To avoid to lose you in the tiny and steep streets of DJL, better to climb anyway up to Chowrasta by a pedestrian street, from where it is easy to reach the budget hotel zone, only at 500 m.
STATE OF ROAD
Mainly good, with always some sections in eternal works.
TRAFFIC
Moderate up to Simana. Then, little by little, trucks appear, mainly after Mirik. Traffic from Sukna.
PROFILE
Simana-Dudhaia, often steep.
Total climbing Darjeeling-Siliguri : 700 m, Siliguri-Darjeeling : 2950 m.
EAU
Without problem from Ghoom to Sukhia Pokhri. But from Simana to the Dudhaia bridge, people are stocking water when they can. After, better to treat or buy bottled water.
CAMPING
Ghoom-Simana : around BK 7.5, then BK 8 & 9. Easy between Sukhia Pokhri and Jorepokhari.
Simana-Gharidura : possible the first 2 km in the descent, maybe possible at the end of Mirik Quiet places between Hillay and the summit-viewpoint, but it is a border zone with Nepal.
Possible around the las pass after the Gyabaree kiosk. Quiet bush BK 2.5 once reached the flatland. Before Sukna, after the large military camp, short crossing of a bush, but surely frequented.
FEATURES
Beautiful crest road almost all the way. Sukhia Pokhri is the access point to Mane Bhanjyang, from where starts an horrible jeep road to Sandakphu. From Simana, a nice viewpoint on the climbing to Tonglu, just for you to see what you have luckily avoided ! Note that if at Ghoom Bhanjang you turn toward Lodoma, you have, after 1 km, a beaufiful view on DJL and Himalaya, probably as good as the one from the Tiger Hill. After Mirik, you cross tea plantations, charming enough, more if it is time for the recolt. This road is far quieter than the main road by Kurseong, but a lot of hills more.
MANEBHANJYANG-Tonglu-SANDAKPHU
STATE OF ROAD
Asphalt the first km (in progress, maybe towards Tonglu). Good gravel road up to km 5. Then, mainly stone paved up to, then a good half of the time up to Gairibas. Gairibas-Bhike Bhanjyang, occasionnal stone paved. Bhike Bhanjyang-Sandakphu, all stone paved as far as I could guess.
TRAFFIC
In one day, I crossed at all around ten jeeps.
PROFILE
Very very steep, mainly at the beginning and at the end. The only hills really bikeable are :
- Kaiyakatta - Kapokhri
- Bikhey Bhanjyang - crest
The rest of the hills, you generally have to push the bike.
The elevations given along the road or found on the touristic booklets seem to me folkloric enough.
Total climbing Mane Bhanjyang-Sandakphu : 2400 m, Sandakphu-Mane Bj : 800 m.
WATER
Outside teashops, you find often torrents between Tumbling Checkpost and Gairibas, and even one after Kaiyakatta.
CAMPING
If you are crazy enough to load you with tenting stuff, there are some places. For instance, a small saddle just before Bhike Bhanjyang (lthe other flat places are crowded with teashops.
FEATURES
It's a nonsense to bike this road, except for pure challence (silly reason).
At Tonglu, first big viewpoint on Himalaya (which can justify the climb up to this point). The uphill from Mane Bhanjyang is of course vertiginous. The sectione Kaiyakatta-Bikhey Bhanjyang is a nice high mountain route. In march, there was only very few snow in north exposed areas.
Sandakphu and its famous panorama on Himalaya (up to Everest in oct-nov-dec).